Knits can be unpredictable. They stretch, recover, and respond differently than woven fabrics — which means drafting for them requires a completely different mindset.
That’s why we’re excited to introduce our newest lesson in the cut-and-sew knit drafting series at University of Fashion: Drafting a Scoop Neckline for Knits.
If you’ve ever struggled with necklines that gape, stretch out, or lose their shape, this lesson is designed to help you take control.
From Sketch to Pattern: Translating Design into Geometry
A beautiful fashion sketch is just the beginning. In this lesson, we show you how to interpret that sketch and convert it into precise pattern adjustments.
You’ll learn how to:
Determine the correct scoop depth for the front and back
Establish the ideal shoulder-to-neck balance
Maintain proportion while accounting for stretch
Knit fabrics demand accuracy — and understanding how much to scoop without compromising fit is key.
Understanding Stretch Before You Draft
Before tackling neckline shapes, it’s essential to understand how knit fabrics behave.
If you haven’t yet explored stretch ratios and knit fundamentals, our lessons on Introduction to Knit Fabrics and Knit Fabric Principles provide the foundation. Stretch affects everything — from neckline fit to seam allowance decisions — and mastering it ensures your designs perform exactly as intended.
Exploring Neckline Finishes
Drafting is only half the story. Finishing matters just as much.
In this lesson, you’ll explore several neckline options:
A clean fold-over finish for a minimal, sleek look
A classic binding for added structure
A self-finished neckline and armhole technique using mirrored front and back pattern pieces
Each method offers a different aesthetic and functional result, giving you flexibility for various design goals.
Preventing Stretch & Distortion
One of the biggest challenges with scoop necklines in knits is maintaining shape over time. Without stabilization, necklines and armholes can stretch beyond recovery.
Our lesson includes a professional technique:
Apply ¼” (6mm) clear flat elastic
Cut slightly shorter than the neckline and armhole circumference
Stitch it in to stabilize while preserving stretch
This simple step makes a dramatic difference in durability and fit.
Continue Building Your Knit Skills
This scoop neckline lesson is part of our comprehensive knit sewing series at University of Fashion.
If you’re ready to deepen your expertise, explore:
Seam allowance strategies for knits
Hem finishes that maintain flexibility
Professional neckline finishing techniques
With the right drafting and construction methods, knits become predictable, reliable, and incredibly versatile.
Master these techniques, and you’ll approach stretch fabrics with confidence — transforming them from unpredictable materials into your most dependable design partners.